Active ingredients glossary
Multi-weight hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a highly hydrophilic complex sugar. Acting like a sponge, it has a strong affinity for the water it retains. When applied topically to the skin, it can, depending on its size, fill several
functions:
- High molecular weight:
It remains on the surface of the epidermis, and creates a protective film preventing water from evaporating. It thus hydrates the superficial layers of the skin, and provides a tightening effect. - Medium molecular weight:
It also acts on the epidermis, and no longer just on the surface of the skin. Its main action is to add volume to the skin to plump it up, give it a plump appearance,
and treat the first visible wrinkles. - Low molecular weight:
A smaller molecule, it penetrates deeper into the epidermis, to the base of the horny structure, to revitalize the skin. It strengthens and stimulates the production of hyaluronic acid naturally orchestrated by the body.
At Ad CAELIA, we offer you the synergy of three molecular weights (low, medium and high) for optimal hydration.
Result ? The skin is plumped, protected, and the signs of aging fade.
Organic black crowberry
This berry, native to Scandinavia and Lapland, has an exceptional polyphenol and anthocyanin content (two major antioxidants).
These countries experience springs and summers with such brightness and sunshine that the berries growing there naturally present a high concentration of polyphenols, not only superior in essence, but over-expressed in this context in order to better protect against UV radiation, extremely cold temperatures, but also against any cellular damage and bacterial infection.
Anthocyanins are plant pigments characterized by their antioxidant properties, as well as their favorable actions on cellular aging, by improving the elasticity and density of the skin. They also soothe redness by strengthening
the resistance of the small blood vessels of the epidermis.
Black crowberry is at the heart of many Ad CAELIA formulas, as its antioxidant power is powerful on the skin (The anthocyanin content of crowberry is 350 mg, where blueberry and blackcurrant are only 300, the raspberry, 150 - source Hakkinen et all., 1999)
Crowberry thus significantly improves the micro-circulation, skin tone and firmness, while ensuring increased anti-radical protection.
Photo © ARKTISET AROMITRY
Green microalgae
This micro green algae is literally one of the super-active ingredients in Ad CAELIA formulations!
Aquatic plants are very interesting for our epidermis, because they have many similarities with the biochemical structure of our skin. The active ingredients from algae are therefore easily assimilated by the epidermis, extremely bioavailable, which explains their remarkable effectiveness. This true concentrate of amino acids and antioxidants from a highly nutritious micro-algae (Chlorella vulgaris), has a structure very close to collagen fibers, whose synthesis it reactivates, while also ensuring its protection. This algae also has a positive action on the reconstitution of elastin fibers, by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for its degradation, and also rebalances the proteins present in the extra-cellular matrix of the dermis, which provide a supporting role for the skin.
Clinical tests carried out with a double daily application of cream dosed at 1% of this micro-algae have shown a very clear improvement in the firmness, tone, and overall appearance of the skin, particularly in terms of pigmentation. , and this, in just 28 days. After three months of testing, the redness linked to poor microcirculation is reduced for more than 75% of participants, and more than 73% say they have less marked dark circles. (Studies carried out by the CODIF natural biotechnology laboratory, on 17 volunteers, for 84 days, using a cream dosed with 1% of this active ingredient). Present in our Multipurpose power eye cream "Sparkle of Joy", this micro-algae offers decongestant, anti-puffiness and anti-dark circles properties, reducing over-pigmentation.
Caffeine
A true Swiss army knife, caffeine is a particularly interesting cosmetic active ingredient due to its different spheres of action.
The ally of choice against photo-aging, caffeine allows, thanks to its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, to fight against free radicals, significantly reducing their impact on the skin (dull complexion, pigment spots, sagging skin, wrinkles).
An excellent vascular toner, it also visibly reduces puffiness in the sensitive area around the eyes, as well as unsightly dark circles and bags.
Finally, its soothing and anti-inflammatory action on the epidermis helps limit the feelings of tightness sometimes induced by skin dehydration, by combating the feelings of discomfort that certain skin types can sometimes experience.
Patented active
Ameyezing
This brand new French patented cosmetic active ingredient of natural origin is effective on both hyper-pigmented and vascular dark circles. Obtained from the supercritical CO₂ extraction of ginger rhizomes, it specifically combats the oxidative and inflammatory phenomena involved in the formation of all forms of dark circles, by fighting against the excessive deposition of melanin in the skin.
By strengthening the integrity of the capillary walls, it improves blood microcirculation, and thus prevents leaks of vascular fluids, which gives it exceptional effectiveness against redness and swelling related to the eye contour.
Two independent clinical studies carried out on people aged 24 to 65 years (with an average age of 46 years) presenting dark circles and/or bags, with an application of a serum containing 1.5% of this active ingredient for two months have showed very positive results: in just 15 days, 94% claimed to have fewer dark circles, 89% to have fewer bags, and 89% to have a less marked eye contour. (Studies carried out by the Sederma laboratory)
Patented active
I-Peptide "Goodnight's sleep"
This patented active ingredient of Spanish origin offers the benefits of a good night's sleep: it helps reduce the inflammatory response, prevents damage induced by sleep deprivation, and has properties similar to melatonin against glycation and peroxidation of cells.
It acts at the structural level of the dermis: it thus maintains hydration, decongests, and stimulates the production of collagen. In 28 days, dark circles faded (-25%), bags deflated (-22%), eyes more open (+43%), and features less tired (-37%) (Independent study conducted by the LIPOTRUE laboratory on 24 women aged 50 to 64, with an average sleep duration of 5-6 hours per day, with double daily application for 28 days of an eye contour dosed with 3% I-peptide).
Thus, the eye area is refreshed, bags and dark circles are reduced, the skin is more elastic and has less redness, inflammation, irritation and imperfections.
Ceramides
Of plant or synthetic origin, ceramides are molecules similar to lipids naturally present in the skin, more precisely in the most superficial part of the latter: the stratum corneum. Described and characterized for the first time in the early 1980s by researchers Wertz and Downing, then Peter Elias, today there are nearly 11 classes of scientifically identified ceramides.
Ceramides bond with other lipids, such as cholesterol, and form a highly ordered lamellar structure called the skin barrier. The latter makes it possible to limit the imperceptible loss of water: in other words, this barrier constituted by ceramides makes it possible to maintain a good level of skin hydration, and thus protects the skin from external aggressions.
True skin care agents, ceramides are used in the cosmetic world for two main actions:
- Maintain the skin's hydration level by strengthening the skin barrier.
- Normalize the skin's natural desquamation process, through the exfoliating action of certain classes of ceramides (type IV) which stimulate cell renewal, thus providing smoother skin and unclogged pores.
Niacinamide
Coming from vitamin B3 essential to our body, and which we nevertheless have difficulty synthesizing, niacinamide has a broad spectrum of cutaneous action, suitable both for mature skin (fight against the signs of aging - pigment spots, wrinkles) and young skin with imperfections. A true super-active for the health of the skin, although it is not natural, it presents no risk, neither for the body (notably presenting no interference with the endocrine system), nor for the environment.
Here are its main benefits for the skin:
- It maintains good hydration, by strengthening the skin's hydrolipidic film.
- It reduces inflammation and reduces redness linked to imperfections or various skin disorders such as eczema) thanks to its soothing properties.
- It reduces pigment spots, whatever their origin (age, sun, hormonal fluctuations, etc.)
- It regulates the level of sebum on the surface of the skin, thus preventing the obstruction of pores which cause the appearance of blackheads and comedones.
- Finally, the antioxidant power of this vitamin helps fight against photoaging of the skin.
Extract of native cells from hollyhock petals
Alcea rosea
This extract of native hollyhock cells included in a complex of Swedish active ingredients, offers an exceptional concentration of ultra-powerful anti-aging active ingredients with smoothing effects, for more radiant, dense and elastic skin.
The extract has a field of multiple actions, and allows in particular to:
- Strengthen connective tissue and the skin barrier
- Gently and naturally stimulate cell renewal metabolism
- Strengthen and deeply hydrate
- Soften the skin
- Promote good healing
- Regenerate the different layers of the skin
- Soothe the epidermis, neutralizing redness caused for example by eczema or psoriasis.
Ash bark tree extract
“Universal tree” according to Nordic mythology, ash has been used for centuries for its exceptional diuretic and anti-inflammatory properties.
Its properties give it an action of choice within the synergy of active ingredients of our Multipurpose power eye cream "Sparkle of Joy", making it possible to significantly improve the lymphatic circulation of this finely vascularized region, thus reducing puffiness and redness.
This extract, rich in antioxidants, also helps protect the skin from oxidative stress responsible for premature aging. Result ? The texture and appearance of the skin are visibly improved.
Argan Oil
Argania spinosa
Nicknamed “liquid gold”, argan oil takes its name from the argan tree, which grows mainly in the southwest of Morocco. In its fruits there are stones which each contain one to three seeds known as kernels. It is from these almonds that argan oil is extracted, by first cold pressing in order to preserve all of its exceptional properties.
Nourishing and anti-oxidant, this vegetable oil is the ally of mature skin. It protects and repairs the skin from external aggressions which generate an overproduction of free radicals, unstable compounds which accelerate skin aging.
It helps to firm the skin and fight against the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Furthermore, its notable content of omega 6 and 9 provides nutrition and elasticity to the skin, and prevents dehydration by strengthening the barrier function of the epidermis.
Photo © NIKKI CRUZ STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY
Rosehip oil
Rosa canina
Exceptionally rich in antioxidant vitamins and minerals, rosehip oil improves the structure of the skin, thanks to its revitalizing, harmonizing and repairing properties for the skin.
Among its many benefits, it allows you to:
- Protect the skin from free radicals, thus preventing signs of premature aging.
- Promote the formation of collagen and elasticity of your skin.
- Smooth visible wrinkles and slow the appearance of new ones
- Hydrate, soften and intensely nourish the skin, thanks to its high-quality essential fatty acid content.
- Smooth skin irregularities (scars, stretch marks, etc.)
- Even out skin tone, promoting cell renewal, and thus reducing pigment spots.
Squalane
Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid present in the plant world, but also naturally in humans. Indeed, human sebum contains approximately 15% squalene, a molecule identified in the 20th century by Tsujimoto in shark liver oil (hence its name).
Today, squalane is essentially of plant origin. At Ad CAELIA, we use squalane extracted from sugar cane.
An excellent moisturizer, it takes the form of a non-greasy oil with a dry feel that quickly penetrates the epidermis and provides numerous benefits to the skin:
- It strengthens the hydrolipidic barrier, thus preventing the epidermis from dehydration.
- It stimulates cell renewal allowing skin texture to be refined.
- It reduces the appearance of imperfections by unclogging pores, thus preventing the appearance of imperfections.
- It improves skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- As an active emollient, it brings softness, suppleness and elasticity to even the driest skin.